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Thread: Puppy Training Question

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Central MN


    I start with clipped wing pigeons as soon as possible. The first time I would also tape the feet togather. With bold pups that could be 8-9 weeks. With a timid pup I would wait a few more weeks to allow them to develop better motor skills, a 12 week old is a dramatically different than an 8 week old. If pup has strong prey drive you can also incorporate gun fire. Start with a .209 primer at 100+ yards. While pup is running down a pigeon fire a shot away from the pup. Watch pup real close you will have to judge his reaction. Many will not even aknowledge the shot, some may glance in the direction, others may stop what they are doing and stare. If pup doesn't aknowledge the shot move 10 yards closer and try again and so on. If pup glances try again from same spot. If pup stops chasing wait a couple weeks and try again. Your goal is to shoot while standing over pup withe the .209. Then start over with a 20 ga then a 12 ga. This process make take a couple months. DO NOT RUSH when in doubt wait! Don't waste time banging pots and pans on purpose just let normal day to day noises happen and don't react to them. Use pheasant wings to teach hold, if you play fetch with them puppy will probably chew them up. Once FF and hold is done train with real birds fresh or frozen.
    This is how I introduce birds and gunfire, it works very well. Remember it takes birds to make a bird dog!
    "We give dogs time we can spare, space we can spare and love we can spare. And in return, dogs give us their all. It's the best deal man has ever made." M.Facklam

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Parker, CO


    This is fantastic information and I am greatly appreciative of your guidance.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2011


    Quote Originally Posted by Gatzby View Post
    I would put a devider in the crate. Give pup room enough to turn around but not much more. Keep the crate next to your bed so you can get him outside as soon as he wakes up. All pups are different but you may only get an hour or two of sleep between trips outside. I feed pups 3 feedings and a bedtime snack, most pups will poop within 10 minutes of eating. Limit water before bed. It will get easier.
    PS I have a 12 week old..... Hang in there it gets fun.
    I used to tell folks this in my practice... It is good advice. I suggested a cardboard box just big enough for the pup to curl up. Put a towel in the bottom for accidents with another under the box and a plastic garbage bag under thatone just in case it bleeds through. Scotch it beside the bed so it won't fall over. When it wakes up it has to go matter what time it is talk it out and stay with it watchfully ( there are coyotes and aerial predators capable of taking a pup. Nothing more boring that waiting in the cold so truy getting it to chase a ball and play or chasing you. It is hard to exercise when you need to pee or other! Once it's done back in the box it goes...until next time. If you think about it from the pup's perspective... it wakes up and is fretting because it knows it will be in its own excrement if it goes so it fusses. You then scramble up to take it out, so you grab it and your pants and race for the door. In that excitement it forgets that it woke to potty, so try the play fetch or chase so it gets reminded it has to go.

    I had a Brittnay once from puppy hood until six months it did its business anywhere it happened to be. He was a card toting lunatic but that's another story, for another time. It was very frustrating trying to get him housebroken. The house was losing! Well he was too big for the box so I tied him at bedtime to my nightstand leg, with only enough leash so he could turn over... if he worked at it. He learned in less than a week to let me know and I would let him out. What a blessing to have read about this method and it worked well. Others have said to stick to your guns and that is also true. Dog training is all about being consistent with what the words mean. You are building a language between you and your pup so help him alll you can by being patient and consistent. Good luck!

  4. #14


    Have two crates or move the crate around. Our strategy is to have the crate in our main activity area ... when ever it sleeps or gets nervous ... it will go to the crate that is her (his) safe area. Toys get returned and stored in the crate.

    Sleeping ... Crate is in the basement at night to keep it quiet ...

    Eventually go to one crate ...

    Older dogs seem to remember the crate inside the house ... they like to go in there too ... must remember when it was available to them.

    My older dogs sleep on a foam dog bed laid out next to my side of the bed... we quit using the crate for sleeping at about 9 months of age or so ... but still used if needed (ie hotel room) ... by then they will use it if offered. Usually won't lock them in ...

    patience ... easier to type the word than live it with dogs day in and day out.
    Last edited by BRITTMAN; 03-11-2016 at 12:50 PM.


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